A CAPricious Tour of Sri Lanka

Yes, I know it is spelled"Ayubowan".

Because I like to greet everyone with a fairly embarrassing sign, I rushed out to get this old photo from Kuantan printed.  I got home only to realize that I spelled it wrong!  Fortunately my kindergarten skills came in handy, I repaired it and I went forth proudly with a proper sign.  

C landed and I threw her right into the action.  She was an awfully good sport about it.  The first day I got her out and about to BreadTalk, Victoria Park, Laksala, and the Sunday Art Walk, where she bargained like a demon for an elephant painting!

The next couple of days were spent in Colombo doing Barefoot (natch!) and Crescat.  Not too exciting but definitely a nice intro to life here. I planned things out almost to the minute and it was lovely to have someone so pliant and agreeable (unlike the rest of the characters in my life!). Thursday morning we headed out to Kandy by train. (Yes, I know "liquor is quicker"*)

Visiting Kandy on a Poya Day.

It was an amazing time to be visiting Kandy.  They take Poya very seriously here and there was definitely a festival atmosphere in the air. There were tonnes of families out and about enjoying the relatively cooler air.  I didn't go into the temple but I did get to see the temple elephant go by.  I just about missed him as they almost seem to glide by, these, noiseless giants.  So whilst Cathy went in, I wandered around the grounds playing with my camera and trying to get some photos.

Who doesn't like popsicles?

 I saw this lady and practically fell over myself trying to be unobstrusive.  I loved the contrast of the colour of her skin, the ice lolly, her hair....sigh, she was gorgeous.

Some pink floss stuff!?

I also saw a vendor selling something I hadn't seen before.  I know that these peddlars are vanishing and I was keen to try and get some shots.  This was the second man I saw selling this pink floss out of rolled newspaper cones.  Being too much of a chickenshit, I didn't buy any but I was really intrigued by it.  It seemed like some "olde timey candy" that held lots of memories for the adults and just a sugar rush for the kids.

Gorgeous school girls Kandy.

A view of the Queen's bath house

The next day was our drive up to Sigiriya.  We passed through Matale and of course had to stop at the Hindu Temple there.  Even though I had seen it only ~2 months ago, the intense sun had faded the colours.  However there was still this lovely Ganesh to ponder.











I loved the vibrancy of the life around the temple as well.  Laundry day always intrigues me and I love the way this was backlit. Trying to be arty-farty and get a decent shot is hard!









Eventually, we made it to Sigiriya just in time to climb it during the force of the mid-day sun.  How is that for planning?  It was amazing!  I am so glad I did it.  It wasn't a hard climb and the vistas were stunning.  I was a little concerned about the possibility of a wasp attack but fortunately C didn't tell me about the swarm she saw until we were on top.  Lemme tellya my descent was rapid and gingerly done after hearing that!.  There were 2 of the sweetest girls skipping up the mountain who wanted to chat, so I engaged them and got this great photo.  

Could they be any cuter??!!

These girls are cute too but might appeal to a different demographic!

Afterwards, we drove up to Dambulla where the Golden Buddha is.  I've seen him before and frankly he's not my favorite image but I hadn't been to the Temple Caves, so being the good hostess, I tried not to roll my eyes and go on.  OMG I am so glad I did!  It was fantastic!  They are these caves on a hill above the Golden Buddha (yes, MORE stairs).  They are loaded with various types of Buddha images and patterned walls.  They aren't well lit because they are not a museum, but that just gives it some more meaning.  It is truly a living, breathing place of contemplation.

The next day we went out to the Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage/Concentration Camp (depending on your view of course!).  There were tonnes of Chinese tourists who were so excited to see the elephants that they were jumping over barriers and getting up close and personal with the Dumbos!  

Coming through town to the river.

Tried to capture what they may have looked like in the wild.

Bath  time!

However I think my inner old lady took over for our next stop.  We went to the Botanic Garden at Peridenya and I loved it!! Argh!  I am so my father's daughter!

Gratuitous art shot!

We then caught the train back to Colombo the next day, after a fairly lazy morning and lunch at the Olde Empire Hotel.  Their watermelon, lime and mint juices are too die for! C then left the next morning on her own for some beach time in Unawatuna.  Plan was for me to join her on Wed aft in Galle and then drive back to Colombo Thursday evening. C very graciously treated us to a lovely night at the Fort Printers Hotel.  Pretty chi-chi!  So now I think that I have stayed in a whole range of accommodation in the Fort.  Plus I have just about worked my way through all the ice cream flavours at Diary King!  Yes, a dirty job...!

Anticipating breaky!

Encapsulates how I feel about the south coast.

Galle is always so welcoming!

No, that's not a worm but a window hook in front of his head.

We left early afternoon after gorging on curry and coconut flan.  We decided to drive up the old coast highway to Hikkaduwa.  I am so glad we did!  We stopped in Hikka and went to the beach.  Of course neither of us had thought to put our bathing suits on in Galle so the locals were entertained/horrified by 2 women trying to struggle into bathing suits in a car.  My big concern was not that I'd flash the locals but that I'd leave an indelible bum print on the driver's seat!  

The ocean was magnificent!  There were gentle waves and nary a rock on the bottom.  For so long, I have needed the ocean to cleanse my spirit and this went a looong way!  Our drive back was pretty mellow and uneventful (thank goodness!).  So we spent the last day being ladies who lunched and then went for foot rubs and then, just like that, she was gone! 

* “Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker.”

― Ogden Nash, Hard Lines 

Weird...but good (isn't that always the way?!)

Kind of had a strange experience the other day.  G and I were invited to dinner with this super rich Sri Lankan gentlemen.  What with G's government job, I'm always a wee bit suspicious of unsolicited invites by host nationals.  I mean, I understand them seeking us out for my sparkling smile and witty repartee but this guy could buy his way into anything, why us? 

Anyway, I decided not to pee my pants about it and gorged myself on his smuggled prosciutto ham. There was a cheese plate with gooey, runny, smelly, mottled fromages, I couldn't even politely take any.  I guess I just don't get cheese, unless it is wrapped in individual servings.

As the evening progressed he mentioned that he did yoga and had an instructor and would I like to go with him later this week, "yeah sure...what the hay?" I didn't think he meant it. Au contraire mon frere, I find myself Tuesday after work outside his gates waiting to go to yoga.  It all seemed very surreal and I amused myself with kidnapping scenarios (too much "Homeland") as we drove into the outer regions of the city.  Once there, my host decided not to do the class but to watch...eeeoooowww.  It felt a little pervy but I figured that I was just flattering myself and turned my attention over to the teacher.  

Now this guy is an Iyengar-trained instructor which means that the terrors of Abu Ghraib were a walk in the park! (Too soon?) I was hamstrung, hung from the ceiling, twisted this way and that. Know what?  I LOVED IT!!  I could not believe how great it was and I was grinning like an idiot the entire time.  What does this say about me?  Yikes!

How could someone so sweet-looking invent such torture?

So now that Guru is in Italy this week, I'll have to live on the memories 'til next Saturday when I go to his Yoga Institute.  Wish me luck!

The Little Market

What a blast I had yesterday.  I haven't felt that great in awhile! 

Woke up with a few things to do on my "critter cans" but overall I was ready to go and felt pretty happy with my output.  The only reality check I had, was going out to the elevator and finding it not working.  Yikes,  we live on the 23rd floor and I had a fair amount of stuff to hump down  (believe me I wasn't calling it "stuff" at that particular moment!)  Stressed me out a bit but thankfully the service elevator was okay, so down I went.

The venue was really cute and just the right space.  Naturally I got the crappiest table but fortunately we were able to move it to the shade!  There were 10 vendors and a really nice selection of items.  The jewelry tables were guaranteed to sell out.  

Made in the shade.

I was pleasantly surprised by the reaction to all my stuff.  My table looked really nice and I think the "merchandising" was good too.  I kept it simple and informative.  However people still pulled photos out of the packages even though I had the sets' contents displayed...sigh.  The reuseable grocery bags were a big seller, then my cards, the critter cans and then the placemats.  The friggin' eyebags didn't budge although there was interest.  Some lady from Dubai swooped in and wanted to order 10, another time though..way to crush my hopes! I think I recouped 2/3 of my outlay!

The best part was that I had girded my loins not to know anyone and have to make SMALL TALK..argh! But no! I knew tonnes of people and had great chinwags with people.  I was so chuffed!  It was relaxed, it was easy, and it was fun!

In fact, I was so full of goodwill that I agreed to do a table for the American's bazaar in November.  In the bright light of day I wonder how smart that was!  But I do have some ideas...

"Don't drink and glue gun..."

So I'm trying to take advantage of the free time I have left before I'm "swamped" at the yoga studio job.  Actually what happened was this lady from school (who put together the first table sale I did) asked me if I'd like to do another sale.  "Why the heck not?", I thought to myself.  You see I was full of the leftover enthusiasm for things that R left behind.  

I've been painting, poking, pressing, pulling and paying for the stuff to make...um...more stuff!  I've decided to branch out from yoga goodies into other schmutz.  

Since I can't decision on one single product, I've decided to go with many.  Hence, "misc."

So here's the name of my booth.  I lurve the pink colour, it's quite sexy!  I got cards made as well.  Now I only have 198 cards to get rid of!  

These are tins for storing whateva!.  Plus you can write with chalk on them.

These have been problematic from the git go.  The lids are quite tight when fully pressed down which is good if you want to store food stuffs but my intent is that they be used for cotton buds, etc..

I've also made a bunch of my photos into card sets.

My cards actually blew my socks off!  I was a bit bummed while doing them because I didn't realize that the size of the photo definitely does have an impact on what is available for the card's space.  So they are not exactly as I envisioned them but they are pretty durn close!  It also didn't help that the artist was less than thrilled to be doing my stuff. I think that they all had bigger projects on the go and that I may have jumped the queue.  She wanted me to just send my stuff via email but I wanted to see what was going to be printed.  Though Anim8 is good, lots of people I know have had spelling errors, etc., from their website designer.

Reuseable fruit and veggie bags.

I have to admit that this is definitely not an original idea but they have been on my mind since Seattle.  The genesis was further hastened by the fact that we are drowning in shitty little plastic bags from Keel's.

See...?

I think that these are kind of fun.  Originally I was going to use them for our dinner party next month, but then I thought perhaps others might like them.  So below are the "works in progress".  I made the block, painted it with acrylic and then stamped it on the burlap.  They are not designed to last for ever but they are quite striking.

Hand blocked placements.

Lastly, are the eye bags.  I have a whole bunch(sigh!) leftover from the pola/market.  I still like the yoga stuff but there isn't the market here for it.  Once again I find myself ahead of the curve!  Story of my life.

Last but not least, the eye bags.  Ta dah!

You might want to pour yourself a second cuppa and settle in.  This is going to be a long post.

The highlight is the visit of R to Colombo.  I managed to embarass her at the airport and we've had fun ever since!  A little background, R lived with us in Korea many years ago and that's where we cemented our friendship.  I've always told G that if we bust up, I get custody of R!

View From our apt.  RJP photo

Best things about R are her spirit of adventure and humour.  She eagerly plunged into the depths of Slave Island.  It was great to have someone to shoot with and it made it the most enchanting experience yet.  We had a freedom and welcome that I don't think anyone else could've.  People came out to speak with us and show us their homes. R furthered the sense of connection by using the playback on her camera for people to see. It was just that extra little touch and her natural ease that made it so much fun.  

RJP photo.

We ended up absolutely gobsmacked when this one lady lead us into her house. It was as neat as a pin.  We met her husband and they graciously offered us some of the chocolate her son had sent from Dubai.  It was a sorry sight all melted, but the gesture was beautiful.  It is always those with the least who give the most!  The whole day was a high like I have never had!  We resolved to come back with prints. 

After that, we hopped the train down to Galle.  We eventually got seats and R was surrounded by a group of police who were on their way to a wedding down south.  They were chatting her up and taking snaps.  Gawd knows where those will end up! Great fun though.  Of course, Galle never fails to impress and delight.  We stayed at Mama's and when the rains came ("What???! It never rains in Galle") we hung out the windows like middle aged strumpets solicting clients! 

Have to tatt everyday or I'll go crazy!

Evening stroll along the rampart. RJP photo

Regardless, we ventured forth into the rain and hung out in cafes and chatted.  We ate very well (go to The Heritage Cafe for their Sri Lanakan food!!) and R ended the evening by curling up with a little light reading that we had found in the room, "Pschyosexual Infantalism".  Beats Tom Robbins all to hell for travel books!

The famous fishermen along Welligama Beach.  RJP photo.

G came down on Sunday and whisked us away to Welligama.  We were so lucky that this day had a whack of pole fishermen out and about.  Of course, they had handlers and it cost 120 SLR for these shots, but well worth it I say!   We ended up at a 2 level shack where we had lunch overlooking the sea.  Post fried rice, we frolicked in the waves before heading home.  It was nigh on perfect!

The next day back in Colombo we got the pictures developed and returned to Slave Island.  That was fun as we had to try and locate people.  Everyone wanted to see the photos and have a good laugh at their neighbour's expense!  I felt that it was very important that we do that because they gave us so much more

TukTuk Mechanic. RJP Photo

.  

The tuktuk mechanic is memmorable for me as he was very gentle and quickly took his photo inside so it wouldn't get grubby.  His face is a tale of his life's struggles.  Little things do mean a lot.  One muslim lady who accompanied us on our search said as much.

Hangin' out the Expo Car. RJP photo.

The next stop was Kandy.  After considerable confusion and stress we managed to get on the Expo car up to Kandy.  It was well worth the 1100SLR (all the trains have been worth the price!)  We got into Kandy and up to the Sharon Inn where the rather, quirky owner seemed to take a liking to us and we were soon booked for dinner, a driver, and train tickets.  So we went and strolled around Kandy.  I dragged R to all the places I like to go...old style fabric shops and we managed to buy the last bit of the "Marimekko" poppy print.  Then off to a few more shops then home.  After a nap we climbed up to the road behind the Sharon where I had gone with S.  

Outside of Helga's Folly.

We went further along and much to my surprise and delight found "Helga's Folly".  I've been looking to go here forever!  I had read about it in the Lonely Planet (yes, I'm that old that I use Lonely Planet) and in a biography of Isabella Blow who had married into the family.  It's quite magical but the entry price to photograph the place is a bit steep.  Luckily, the clerk was bored and let us wander around the grounds.  It was his work on the outside of the buildings and walls so we exclaimed loudly about how good it was!

The next day we planned to go up to Polonnaruwa and then Minneriya.  It's the site of these ancient standing Buddhas, among other ruins.  Minneriya is where the elephants gather in Aug/Sept.  It was a pretty ambitious routing to be sure.  The distances aren't long but travel takes a lot longer.  

"I'm with Stupa!"

Even if it didn't work, he was pretty nice!

We stopped at a spice garden along the way and R was so impressed with it she decided to have a consult with the "Nature Power" doctor.  That's what it is called here to distinguish itself from Ayurvedic medicine.  It was very cool and I vaccilated between thinking "snake oil"  and "this is the way to go" .  However R's experience was quite positive and she picked up some "meds".

We got up to Polonnaruwa sometime after lunch and it was smokin' hot, almost sickeningly so. R was definitely not on top of her game but she's a trooper.  Most of the ruins are just that and we kept jonesing for the Buddhas.  The large, all brick chedi we saw before getting to the Buddhas was really nice but we'd pissed away so much time on other ruins that we just zoomed through it.  

Lastly was the Buddhas.  They were well worth the wait.  We could've stayed there a lot longer too.   It's been kind of cool seeing these Sri Lankan sights in old Duran Duran videos and then actually getting to go there.  "Simon LeBon, wherefore art thou?" 

Unfortunately due to our late start and the incompetence of our driver we missed getting to Minneriya on time.  Perhaps it was a blessing in disguise as R had not been feeling 100%.   She conked out on the way back to Kandy and slept the whole night. I kept holding a mirror under her nose just to make sure!  It was an unfortunate mistake and I would recommend that one be more insistent on what they want to see and have some sort of a schedule to stick to.  The drivers are always trying to get you to see stuff off the beaten path and thereby grease the palms of their friends.  We let the Sharon Inn owner know that we weren't happy. 

Zen Dawg

Our next morning was the trip to Nuwara Eliya.  Of course it was raining (no need for a rain coat it never rains in Nuwara Eliya!  Sheesh...think I'd learn!) Along the way we stopped at the largest reclining Buddha in Asia.  The temple seemed to be run by boys aged 5-11.  They had a great dog that very Zen and just hung over the balcony taking us in!  The little kids crowded around us asking for "Buble, buble" .... we had no idea.  The singer?!  Until we figured out it was bubblegum they wanted!  Cheeky monkeys they were! 

Lovely, misty day.

I hate monkeys.

Most the view was covered in mist but there were still glimpses of the hills and the occasional tea picker.  We seemed to stop at every single waterfall along the way!  I was so sick of them that for the last one I stayed in the car only to have a troupe of monkeys jump on the car and peer in at me! 

A "WTF?" moment for the locals?

"Bucket list?"

By the time we arrived in Nuwara Eliya it was cold and pissing down buckets of rain.  First order was to purchase your classic "Traveling Vermin" brand rain ponchos.  Thank God we did.  They did add a modicum of protection but it was still chilly!  The 320 SLR "Hello Kitty" polar fleece pants started to look pretty good.  The town is very different from Kandy.  It is a real working town and the majority are Tamil. We managed to get some good shots.  The market there is small but very lively.  We stayed at the Glendower Hotel as G and I did last time and again, it was lovely.  This time however, we got a renovated toilet and were quite comfortable.  R marveled at all the flowers in the garden as they were almost identical to those she'd plant in Canada! 

Being in Nuwara Eliya you have to go to the Grand Indian to eat but they changed it to a buffet and R's stomach was still iffy so we went into the Grand Hotel instead.  I think we landed at Fawlty Towers! Our waiter was quite entertaining as he was very cranky and a bit put out that we were there!  But the other staff made up for that when R had a big struggle with trying to get her rain poncho on and a very cute staffer stepped in to help!

Nanuoya Station

Once again, hangin' out a Sri Lankan train.

Next morning our driver arrived.  He was great and I will make an effort to get his name out there for people.  We drove to Nanuoya for the train.  It's on the Hatton road and it's almost done.  It's completely opposite to what G and I experienced in Jan.  It will be really nice to drive.  The station was chockablock with foreigners, some going up to the Knuckles to hike, others back to Kandy or Colombo.  We had booked second class and it was pretty nice!  A new car, open windows, 2 toilets, no a/c and no non-stop Disney movies!  If I were recommend any rail trip in Si Lanka, this would be it. One of the most spectacular train rides ever.  You are high in the tea hills coming down through the lower elevations to sea level in Colombo.  It's verdant, beyond belief.  The vistas stunning.  I got to ride out the side again and R was great about buying whatever the vendors had to sell.  OMG! BUY THE HOT FRIED PEANUTS WITH CURRY LEAVES!!  Sorry to yell but they are awesome!

We found out that our ticket was through to Colombo so we stayed on and arrived about 4:30 pm.  Not bad, about 6 hours...stress-free and for 600 SLR each.  That night we took R to Min Han our hole-in-the-wall Chinese beanery for dinner. 

Monday was pretty lowkey but Tuesday we went out to Negombo to the Fish Market.  That town gets more interesting each time I drive through.  (There are a few tinker shops I'd like to go to so I guess I do give a tinker's damn! I crack myself up.)

Fish monger

This time I took her into the wet market and it was quite a sight.  No one there was there to pose for pictures they were working and selling and buying.  A different feel but not unfriendly.  The light is very strong and hard to get balanced photos of. The fishermen were very proud of their catch and the banter lively.  Being from the prairies I have no idea what all these critters are.  But the wealth the ocean provides boggles my mind.  







Could've stayed for hours shooting faces.  We moved over to the drying area and then up to the beach.  

We bought a drink at the JetWing Hotel and just drank in the view.  There were dhows all along the horizon as well as on shore.  They are such a graceful boat and that they can sail in different directions at the same time never fails to amaze me.  I think I might have to book a dirty weekend here.

Chillin' in Negombo.

Yesterday was Pettah Market.  I felt a little guilty taking R into The Corner Shop "just to look at fabrics" but I knew she'd love the stuff.  She bought 4m of fabric to cover her couch in her favorite colours all for ~ 1300 SLR.  We also popped into a trim store and honestly, I don't know how she decided which trim to buy.  I'm always a little overwhelmed. R is so easy to take rather hectic places.  She felt comfortable enough to get some good snaps of the hubbub that is Pettah.  

So the last few days R had to have adventures by herself as I was subbing at work.  I think she quickly got used to having the driver!  No doubt once home she'll get into the backseat of her car and wait there for Nilifer to show up!  Apparently he used a bit of "diplomatic privilege"  to get some choice parking spots while squiring her around.  I think she's used it more than I have!  

Quite an amazingly fun time for me.  I was surprised at how much we did and what there was to do!  As I've said, her interest in getting out there and her excellent photography skills made it so much fun.  Time whizzed by and now she's back home...and I'm back to my everyday adventures...solo.  

Driver?! I don't need no stinkin' driver.

No!

No!

YES!

Well I finally broke down and did it...got a driver.  OMG what took me soo long!  I can't believe how stress has been removed from my shoulders!  I get in the car, he deals with the traffic, the parking, the whatevs.  I send texts, veg out or plan the next place I want to go to!  He is a really nice guy who drives really well.  Big stress reliever!

That said I'm out to the airport to pick up Rhonda.  I can't believe she's here and that she came all this way...awesome.  Do you think that this is a suitable welcome?

Later...

She arrived safe and sound and seemed to get a big laugh!  I think I'll take her out to Barefoot today to gently immerse her!  Things always look different in daylight!

Talk to you soon.

"Think I'll go out to Alberta..."

 Pretty glorious shot.  It's the flag off the Admin building at the U of A.  Took N up there to just get feel for the possibility university has.  He doesn't have to go to U of A (which he made abundantly clear!) but I'm glad he came and saw it anyway.

After our campus visit we went to the Provincial Museum to see this show.  It's a traveling exhibit from EMP in Seattle (will I never be free of that place?!).  It was pretty good.  The best part for me was the wall of album covers.  They were mostly from the 80's and to see The Runaways, Ramones etc., was fun.  

My apologies to G as he is a Ducati fan but I look pretty awesome!

Then we drove downtown which remains dismal, but we came across the Neon Museum.  It's a quite cool idea and a few of the signs I recognized from when I was younger.  Must be nice for those guys who have their condos downtown. 

This is the remains of M's last baby tooth. Gruesome...no?

This was kind of fun.  S found on the teacher's email that someone was looking for a yoga teacher for her daughter's birthday party.  Apparently birthday parties have themes now and hers was "wellness"!  Uh...okay.  They were really fun girls and we had a good laugh and I made a fair chunk of change from that!   

The boys have picked up a few odd jobs.  It's been hard as N is legal but he's not bondable so he can't do retail.  (Sigh, next year?)  Anyway he and his brother have been helping out.  S can use their energy as she has lots of bits and bobs that need moving/chucking out, etc..

Sylvan Lake is Hockeyville this year...who knew?

We went out to Sylvan Lake for Canada Day this year.  It was a picture perfect Alberta day.  I really love my province on days like this.  The sky especially.

Can't go to Sylvan and not do The Big Moo.

So my next big project is selling my "Jesus in a ham sandwich" on the internet.  Obviously I have a lot of time on my hands.

"Hammy Summer everyone!